Jingle Jungle
Out in the wilds today then, or a relatively monetised version of the wilds. But first things first, clearly had got carried away with my 12 hour sleep yesterday as back to usual rubbish few hours again last night!
Breakfast and chat with one of the locals who organises the activities here to book in a couple of things.Today a negotiated trip out to one of the local villages where a walk to the Biausevu Falls was number 4 on the Trip Advisor must see in the area, and a chance to sample a bit of old Fiji at rates mates as the locals run this hostel and we get a slightly more rough and ready approach than maybe the case in the more swanky resorts we passed on the Coral Coast.
We are definitely having to go with the flow; having agreed a price with one of the chaps on site here, he promptly sub contracted the whole trip to his one legged mate, who stuffed us all in his clapped out automatic and we traversed the tarmaced and then dusty roads through a number of the local villages. A passing comment from our driver when I asked about some colourful houses - they be the Indians who rent off the villagers did remind me that not everyone lives happily next to each other here. I think the reasons perhaps run deeper than ethnicity though, poverty has a hand in determining how well people get on with each other I think.
Was really a bit of an eye opener as we trundled off road to the village that would be our hop off point. A staged kava ceremony where we all had to imbibe the local vegetable juice as part of a the chief welcoming us to his patch. Later found out it was mildly narcotic, finally we have managed to get Carys to drink something ha ha!! (she was not happy!)
A local member of the village then guided us through the jungle on a fairly well established path (we weren't the only ones, far from it) and crossed the river 7 times until we finally reached the powerful waterfall. It was pretty intense, although that could have been the kava, enjoyed the colours and contours of our trip.
We all then took a bit of a duck in the splash pool, great photo opportunities for all, and then downhill back to the village, where we got the lift back to the Beach house. We were all very tired, some talk of going to see some local village rugby was not pursued, hoping I still get to see some, did catch a few kids playing as we drove through one of the villages on our way out here from the airport. That was another driver that probably wouldn't have met Health and Safety at home either, we are fringing the backpacker lifestyle out here for sure.
Lots of lounging around with Wifi and books in the afternoon after a late lunch of tuna rothi wraps and chips (east meets west!), and the powerful sunset has not lost its impact on what, our third night here. Moved onto the local beer tonight, Fiji Gold, accompanied our vegetable lasagne nicely, still full from lunch to be honest.
Bryn and Carys have run into some student backpackers, interestingly doing Think Pacific, one of the volunteering schemes we promote to our own students back in Bristol. Hoping this continues to add travel to their blood in the way it coarses through ours.
(Carys)
We set our alarms today for our morning activity, and had some more good breakfast to start off the day. I made sure to apply a lot of suncream today to be sensible, and covered up, before we headed off for our trip, driven to one of the villages a few miles away.
We were kindly welcomed, and took part in the kava ceremony, in which we had to clap, say 'bula', and take the kava drink, which comes from a root. I had heard of it before but wasn't sure what to expect - it was quite bitter and numbed the mouth a little, but felt nice to be a part of the local customs. The community hall were selling a variety of different hand crafted products, including jewellery, cloths, decorations and accessories.
I chose to buy a cute little bracelet that said 'Fiji Islands' on it, to keep as a souvenir for this part of the trip - I'm keeping my Passmo travel card from Japan. Bryn also bought oyster pearl necklace. After that our guide led us out onto the path for our trek to the waterfall, for which the village is known for. We had to wear our sliders and sandals to cross the 7 parts of the river to get there, but I ended up walking most of it bare foot to avoid blisters - in hindsight that wasn't really necessary and I walked back in my sliders, but it made my feet feel strong I suppose.
The walk was a little longer than I expected, about a mile and half each way, but it was without a doubt worth it, as when we arrived at the waterfall, it was a perfect way to spend the morning. After taking some great photos we got straight in, and although the water was of course freezing, it was quick and easy to get used to. Swimming under the waterfall itself was an adrenaline boost, but it took your breath away a bit. We spent some time swimming about, and I enjoyed seeing some slightly larger fish swimming around our feet.
When we did get out we were in for a bit of a different shock, when one of the locals jumped off the side of the waterfall and landed in the pool - impressive but really risky. The walk back was even nicer, and we got to greet a lot of others along the way, including people riding horses along the path which was amusing. Once home I changed, and spent the rest of the afternoon in the shade, reading and relaxing, enjoying yet another beautiful sunset on the beach from the hammocks, which are increasingly comfortable. Soon enough it was dark, so I showered and came back out for dinner, which I chose lasagne and garlic bread - tasty enough but not my favourite of the meals we've had here, and the garlic bread portions are stingy, but I say that as a garlic bread enthusiast. Bryn and chatted to some lovely Australian travellers, and now, feeling strangely sleepy, I'll be off to bed.
Lots of amusing events today. Made me lol. Keep them coming. One legged taxi drivers, Kava 🤣
ReplyDeleteAnother brilliant blog pleased that you are all continuing to add to your travel experiences
ReplyDeleteGlad you met some friendly Aussies, Carys, and tried kava - it’s fully vegan 🌱 😆
ReplyDeleteLloyd, the authenticity of trips to villages is a tough one in the Pacific. It’s got to be sustainable and generate income for villages but it always feels a little fake and cringy, I agree. If there’s no formal employment nearby the villagers will mostly be subsistence farmers so the economic benefits to them are important and for you, the opportunity to appreciate the simplicity they (necessarily) live with.
We did a very similar trip just pre Covid to Tanna. Booked 3 nights but left after 2 because it was pretty challenging for us all with Sarah to live in the beach bungalow with no power at night and the “outside” bathroom. The Tourism CEO nailed it with her observation - no one is ever sorry they went, but equally everyone is very happy to get back to their first world luxuries, like power and hot water.
Keep up the great work, love virtual tours with the Williams Family 😘
Hey, I totally get this, it felt more comfortable than some things we've come across, we didn't do a similar thing in SA because it felt too intrusive, but this actually felt quite respectful. I think the challenge of doing this with a child with additional needs would be enormous so fair play to you all xx
DeleteYou really have found a wonderful place - imagine all the good food, the sea so close at hand and journeys like the one to that delightful waterfall today. It prompts me to ask how you came to find and book the place, was it the advice of friends, or reliance on google, or some other form of research?
ReplyDeleteIt is great too to hear that you made a link back to work with the Think Pacific programme - I bet you'll be even more convincing talking to UWE students about it when you have returned from your pacific jaunt.
The final two shots of the sun going down really do evoke the South Sea vibe, I feel relaxed with you just looking at them, as they say: "Stay cool, man"
It is certainly allowing us to create our own unique story which I love. In terms of the research, I began my Fiji dream looking at homestays/huts out on the Islands. It became clear that time and logistics were not going to make that doable. We then ended up looking at hotels on the main island and they were all higher end and really not providing the experience or price range we wanted. So google was out friend, and indeed budget, and I think it was Chrissi that stumbled across this place, which marketed itself as a bit of a higher end backpackers. And the rest, as they say, is history.
DeleteAnd a very enjoyable history too, by the look of it!
DeleteInvigorating day - covered so much - obviously an energetic family - where does that come from, haha!!! Beautiful photographs, and lovely descriptions - ensures we do not need to travel there!!!!
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