Rising Sun from Fuji was Monkey Magic
Born from an egg on a mountain top, definitely a bit of magic and mysticism as we got out of our hut and started the ascent up Fuji this morning. The Monkey Magic theme tune was one of the first records I was bought as a child and I trust the music is ear worming you now!
But a quick rewind, no sleep for yours truly in the hut, or Bryn who was huffing and puffing in the bunk next to me. We both got up at 3 and just waited for the dawn rays to appear. As soon as they did we got the girls kitted out for the climb so we could leave the 7th Station for the Summit. Most of our hut had left 3 hours previously to watch the sun rise on the summit, there was no way that was an option with my party.
And it didn't need to be, we scrambled up a couple more inclines, and at 4.36am (Bryn had it on the timer) we witnessed sun rise from Fuji in the land of the rising sun. What more could you ask for? Well a clearish day with clouds for Monkey to summon his ride of choice ... nicely ticked.
It was around this point that our party had a decision to make as Chrissi admitted that the technical nature of the climbs were beginning to concern as she was thinking ahead to getting back down. Luckily we had Bryn amongst us who is quite happy to call it a day at any point on a mountain, and so we split in 2, Carys and I to take a shot at the summit, Bryn and Chrissi to call it a day at the top of the 7th Station.
The climb actually became a little less scrambley after the 8th Station, but was relentless, and after Station 8.5 you could see the summit, but my word it was a dot, and each switch back became a target.
After the 9th Station each rock became a target although I did quite enjoy when we entered the shrine part of Fuji, breath was starting to feel short, but it felt we were now in a doable place for a final push. I don't think we suffered any major altitude ill effects but it was preying on my mind, as were some thunderous booms from below that turned out to be industrial rather than weather related.
Was quite a relief when we got to the top although everything was still closed and most of the crowds had passed us on our way up, as the bulk of them were up there for the sunset.
It could have felt like a bit of an anticlimax but was great to share this achievement with Carys, we really kept each other going when a few doubts were setting in over the last 600m of climbing, and were perhaps similar in general contentment with the achievement, and curious to look in the crater, and around the Fuji rim. We were also a little concerned for the welfare of our other family climbers, and the wi fi had stopped at the 9th station so we weren't sure if they had made it down.
We scrambled around a bit but I was under the impression we shouldn't have circled the crater to other viewpoints although the limited numbers up there by that time seemed to be doing whatever they pleased.
We adopted this reckless approach on the descent as we took a path that was off limits but seemed to offer a quicker and smoother way back to our start point. Later we found out it was called the dust trail, many, many soft dusty switchbacks that were both steep and smooth. As runners this was both an opportunity and a necessity to break into a jog for parts, and was a fun way to get through a lot of it.
The fun did diminish after a whilst as any climbers now, the pressure on the feet of constant descending causes all sorts of aches. Completely different to the cardio vascular challenges of the ascent, the muscles were screaming by the end, and the last mile or so we slowed into a series of winces and groans. Of course, still quietly smiling inside and taking in a few random sights, Snow and ice just below the rock face nearer the summit a reminder why you can only climb this safely between July and early September.
Back at the 5th Station (our starting point almost 24 hrs previously) we caught the bus back to Kawiguchiko and limped our way back to the airbnb, battle worn but proud.
A very quiet afternoon was to follow, the other 2 were back, Bryn asleep, and Chrissi checking out the local lakes, so great to see everyone was following their dreams.
I nodded off for a wee while between eating all sorts of snacks and having a celebratory beer, and then we looked to eat everything up in the house as part of our departure preparations for tomorrow. We had acquired quite an assortment of rubbish food from the local supermarket. Lawson has done well out of us on this trip, seems a long time since we arrived and used their free wifi. Only 48 hrs but its been like an express train, a bullet train if you will! A number of experiences like that not ticked off, but will reflect on all that when we pack and move to our next destination, a transition and travel day to come ...
(Carys)
With what I'm guessing was about 2 hours of sleep in the hut, we got up and swiftly got ready for our ascent up the mountain. Even though it was only 3.30am, we were almost the last people to leave our area of the hut, and as we began, the sun had just risen.
We started the scramble up the rocks, which then continued being the typical terrain once Mum and Bryn had decided to turn back. I also lost my hat at this point, which was very annoying, but I was cheered up by the lovely sunrise and obviously beautiful views. Once we'd tackled the rock-climbing area of the trek, it was onto more dusty tracks of slate and stones, a bit slippy, but manageable. Dad and I made our way up slowly but surely, hoping to keep off altitude sickness, checking off each station as we went, with little breaks and nice chats with some other hikers. It was a challenge, particularly nearing the top, and the markers signifying how close we were were encouraging.
The day consisted of putting on and taking of layers frequently, with the sun making appearances and then disappearing for the while, but overall we had very fortunate weather conditions. After some hard work from the both of us, we made it to the summit which felt very satisfying. I really love climbing and hiking so I'm very grateful we got to do such a special one. It turns out there is an actual summit round the side of the crater, rather than the small-ish shrine and quiet buildings at the front of the top, but we knew we needed to make our way down shortly, and were happy with just having reached the top of the mountain.
Regaining our energy with a few snacks, we started the descent, which already proved very difficult, due to how incredibly steep each turn was. Most of the walk down was made up of the slippery slate again, which was much more of an issue when coming down, and caused some ankle twists and a few falls in all honesty. It was pretty painful by then, but we took our time and, going via a slightly different route to avoid backwards rock-climbing which Mum and Bryn had ended up doing, we looped back round to the 6th station. The last mile included a little too much uphill as we approached the 5th station, our initial starting point, which felt a very unfair end, but we did it.
I collapsed in somewhat of a heap whilst waiting for the bus, feeling very strong and accomplished, and proud of all of us for our attempts. Dad somehow managed to pick apple flavoured crisps when I requested a snack from the shop - not sure I'm a fan, so we picked up some more bits after we got off the bus, and did another painful walk back to the airbnb.
Here we found Bryn asleep, and Mum gone to see the lakes, but we all later congregated to share our series of events, since WiFi, though impressive for a mountain, had been patchy throughout the day. I don't have a lot more to say of the rest of the day, as since realising I'm quite sunburnt I've been rather exhausted and just resting and reflecting on the adventure we've had.
Congratulations both of you, what an amazaing effort. A great account of it too, from each of your perspectives. That final picture does see both of you looking very red, so I hope the sun doesn't cause a burn for the next few days.
ReplyDeleteThe views are amazing, though I think I can live with seeing photos of it!! Yesterday I was reading about the Five Lakes and the views from there and realised I would have been very happy seeing them rather than going to the top - walking I'm fine with, climbing, not so much!! So perhaps we need an extra blog post from Crissi telling us about her experience for those of us who are vertically challenged in our tourism π.
The sign saying 'Pass into shelter in case of failing debris' was enough to give me a shiver - glad there wasn't too much debris today!! It sounds scary.
You must both be physically and mentally exhausted after your efforts, so I'm even more grateful than ever for you taking the time and effort to write it all up and share it with us here on the blog - diolch!
Chrissi is formulating a review. The Cable Car / Lake combo was recommended before the trip to us too, but I had my sights set on the bigger prize.Old Japanese proverb says if you don't climb Fuju once when you are in Japan you are a fool, if you climb it twice you are a bigger fool!
DeleteHi Haydn, Lake Kawaguchiko is really beautiful. You can stroll around, do a boat trip, have a coffee. The ropeway (cable car) was a short hop up to a hill opposite Fuji, so it's basically a photo opportunity point, with lovely views across to the mountain. It was a clear day, but so hot it was a bit hazy. Got a few nice pics. .. arguably would be better to do this one in winter to catch Fuji with its snow cap on. There's also a cafe and a shrine to the rabbit which I need to research.
Deletehttps://en.japantravel.com/yamanashi/the-tale-of-the-tanuki-at-mt-fuji-panoramic-ropeway/59497
DeleteThanks Lloyd and Chrissi,
DeleteI love the proverb, and think it sums it up rather well.
Good description of Lake Kawaguchiko it sounds like just my sort of place. Glad you had such a good time while your other half was risking life and limb π
Thanks for the link too - makes it sound very appealing.
Just wow! You came, you saw, and you all conquered, in your own way. Living the dream ππ―π΅π»
ReplyDeletedoes feel like another one of those icons I've had on my mind since a child, like the Opera House in Sydney, or the Kremlin in Moscow (although I was a child when I saw that) or Grand Canyon / Las Vegas Strip/ Empire State Building, things that feel so far away and other worldly so exciting when up close and personal!
DeleteThat's a great update, both of you. A real adventure
ReplyDeleteWell you all made the most of that adventure xx
ReplyDeleteWell done you lot. What an achievement. Puts mine and Frans jaunt up Sugarloaf last year in perspective! I remember playing monkey magic with you - we used the pouffes as clouds :))
ReplyDeleteJapanese connection with Monkey is I knew it was filmed here and all Japanese actors including the main man. The fable it is based on, and indeed the actual story is supposed to be in China. But I was happy to take the Japanese element yesterday and clouds below Fuji were more impressive than our old furniture. Good to know you are reading bro, I've just taken a picture of the theme park just for you, will include in todays blog.
DeleteWell done both of you! What a great adventure. Glad you all made it safely back to the air bnb in tact! Plenty of time to recover in Fiji! Wendy
ReplyDeleteWhat a brilliant achievement both of you you must be so proud and well done Chrissi for doing something different hope you are all feeling less sore and stiff safe travels to Fiji mum
ReplyDeleteReally proud of your achievement - no sleep, mentioning 'Stations' like Everest and sunrise viewing - wow!!! Pleased no altitude problems but that 'Dust Trail' seemed unpleasant. Glad your experience of jogging came in handy - certainly helped with the downward trail!!! Understand fully Caz why you were proud of your achievement - we are too, x.
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